equiShopping.com Blog

A simple guide to bits.

Most people have been through lectures on bitting that although informative sometimes need a bit of a reality check.  The vast majority of horses go well in a snaffle and that's all they'll ever need but then there are those that need a bit of thought when it comes to bitting. 

The next step up from a snaffle is usually something with a bit of poll pressure like a gag.  It's also worth noting when you use a three ring gag on the lowest hole that the sides can sometimes turn up leaving you with no brakes.  The solution seems to be to put a strap on the underside in the curb groove that goes between the two largest rings on the bit (use a spur strap).  However, check the rules before adding to bits as "home made" changes are sometimes not allowed. 

Looking at more specialist cases.  The waterford is a useful tool for horses that clamp down on the bit and run.  It's made of large metal bubbles so doesn't give the horse anything to lean or clamp down on. 

Although quite funky looking the Tom Thumb is also quite a handy bit and works well for those horses that you can never seem to find the right bit for.  Usually because it's such an unusual bit that no one's ever tried it before. 

The world of the double bridle is more for the dressage side of things but the same principles go.  Keep it simple.  So stick with the standard bridoon and weymouth unless you have to change things.  Looking at port sizes is also a good plan if your horse has a chunky tongue... Double bridles can be used XC or showjumping but you do need to be careful not to get your knitting in a knot.  Pelham roundings can help save the hassle of two sets of reins if you can't quite get your head round it. 

 Hackamores are again a specialised bit of kit but have kept more than one top end horse going in the past when they've had mouth injuries.  Some horses also just go better without a bit in their mouth.  Hackamores need a fair bit of attention to get the right fit and type though as they can exert some pretty harsh pressure if used incorrectly.  The bottom line being that the strongest bit in the right hands can be very kind but the softest bit in the wrong hands can be lethal.

There are lots of other types of bits and people classify bits in many different ways but that covers what most horses go in. It's also worth noting the usefullness of the Fulmer cheek.  It's not only useful for young horses that have steering issues but has been used for several ''cart horses in a breastplate'' who need that bit more encouragement to go round the corners.  Before I land myself in it, several top top horses have been ridden in Fulmer cheeks so it's not just for babies and lunies.  Happy bitting!!

 

Christmas presents that last.

We all know what it's like being given a new grooming kit for christmas... when there's nothing wrong with the one you've got and you get stuck with the new embarrassing pink sparkly one for the rest of the season.  So how about this year you give something that people genuinely like - it might not be a traditional christmas present but aren't the things that we use everyday most dear to us? It may seem at times that I'm perilously close to suggesting you give a chopping board or a saucepan to your sister but I reckon I've got some ideas up my sleeve!

Over the winter most eventers will end up showjumping quite a bit and chances are it'll be in their xc hat with a black silk stuck on.  Now there's nothing wrong with that but cool peaked hats with vents and the rest of the gizmos are a lot slicker than a chunky skull cap.  Plus, when the eventing season comes you'll look a lot better out showjumping.  It's also worth noting that you can't wear a beagler for the dressage at BE100 or below so you do need a "hard" hat.  A peaked one looks a lot better going down the centre line.  Check out Equishopping's selection of peaked hats here.  

The next thing is probably equivalent to buying a loved one a new set of kitchen knives but a DECENT shavings fork for example cannot fail to go down well.  BIN the old one and replace it.  It might not go down so well compared to a diamond but in freezing cold January when mucking out is at it's height you'll suddenly become very popular!

The next idea is more unusual.  A new stock pin.  Buy a decent quality one but please no blingy ones and sharpen the point.  When your recipient comes round to doing their stock up next they'll be pleasantly surprised that there's no battle of the Titans to put the pin through the stock.  You'll definitely get a smile for this one.  One warning though - sharpening a stock pin is actually quite tricky so it's definitely a case of 'it's the thought that counts'.  

 Another piece of advice.  Under no circumstances should you buy riders XC colours.  Riders are phenomenally picky in a kind of hypersensitive way about their XC colours so this is an impossible gift to buy.  Give them some money instead and point them our way!  

One final idea.  Buy some good quality saddle covers.  Lot's of yards have saddle covers but a set of quality ones will make you very popular.  Plus, they look a lot neater.  

Happy Shopping!!!

 

equiShopping UK Newsletter 11 - November 2010

You can read our november newsletter here and find out about Christmas shopping, great deals, special offers, new merchants...

Free advertising - you simply can't lose out!

It's not uncommon to hear people comment on the price of advertising horses.  Current prices are sky high and when you're selling a low value horse advertising can take a large chunk of your profits.  The theory behind paying more is that you are paying for a premium space where your ads are displayed to a maximum audience.  That's one business model.  Now look at it from another angle.  Here at Equishopping we let you advertise everything from horseboxes through to grade A jumpers's. For free.  So what's the idea behind it? It's not because no one would pay to advertise with us it's because we think we're far better off letting you advertise for free and you seeing what else we offer.  We're confident that's the best way forward because you'll like what you find.  The bottom line is - you simply can't lose! It's free and will take you about 3 minutes to do.  

One problem with a lot of free advertising sites is that they have a huge number of lower value horses without much balance.  At equishopping we like to keep the balance between high and low value.  That way we have buyers with the money coming our way but we keep our traffic up as we've something for everyone.  Simple really.  So, yes, we offer free advertising for the right reasons - no catches.  We hope you'll agree...

But how on earth do you write an advert.  Not just an average one but one that'll have the phone ringing all day long for the right reasons.  The first step is no be truthful in your description.  There's very little point trying to lure buyers in with over exaggerated claims that they'll soon see aren't true.  However, just because we don't exaggerate doesn't mean we can't make ads stand out.  The trouble is with exagerating is that everyone does it - how many times do you read "stunning" in an advert title - the reality could be somewhat dimmer.... Play to your strong points.  Every horse under the sun has some plus points even the most difficult of beasts.  

Video and photos are the best way to show off those strong points.  I mean decent photos though, in good lighting, taken on a good quality camera or you're wasting your time as no one can see what their potential purchase is.... The other point with videos is that unless horses haven't been backed or you've got lots of photos in the ad don't use a picture of the horse being held or of its head.  Go for the action shot that actually shows the horse working.  

It's also very important to have all the details in your advert.  There's nothing more annoying than having to call about a horse just to find out how big it is! Plus, most people just won't bother and move on... Furthermore, when you give contact details make it very clear when you'll be available or if people should leave a message for example.  If you don't get back to people or they can't get hold of you they'll very quickly lose interest... 

Go for it! If you use Equishopping you just can't lose.  What's stopping you?

Caring for your horse during his holidays.

It's that time of year again when a lot of us give our horses a holiday.  With the eventing season over and the summer venues packed up for dressage and jumping it's easy to 'chuck 'em out in the field' as people put it.  Although it's not really that easy... 

The first conundrum you might face is shoes on or off? It's certainly cheaper to not shoe horses for their holidays but not all horses cope with having their shoes taken off.  Especially if they've been shod since the year dot. We all try and turn horses out as much as we can during their holidays but this has it's problems as well. Firstly, horses seem to have a habit of pulling shoes off when left to their own devices.  It might be worth trying something like the 'ShoeSecure' horse shoe shield which is designed to alleviate the problem.  While we're on the topic of legs - chaps for horses. With horses being turned out for longer periods the mud and wet can really begin to get to them resulting in mud fever for example.  Turnout boots seem to be the answer to this problem but they must be kept clean and dry (or at least start the day like that).  After that, washing any mud off the legs and then drying them should help.  

Looking outside the window, it's also a good idea to look at whether your rugs are actually that warm and dry.  Over the years the waterproof coatings can deteriorate and the insulation pack down leaving your trusty steed damp and cold.  Equishopping has a vast range of turnout rugs to choose from and there's a few bargains there as well! As your horses settle into their holidays and begin to enjoy the 'field factor' they might begin to get a little difficult to catch in the evenings.  Leaving a head collar on is OK as long as it's a leather one which will snap if they manage to get caught up in some bizarre predicament... Don't panic, Equishopping has some reasonably priced leather headcollars not just posh ones! 

When it comes to December time and your thinking of bringing horses back into work Equishopping can help again with it's database of healthcare professionals including physio's and osteopaths. Just like when humans start a fitness campaign, think Olympics or Marathons, they have regular health checks so that any small problems that you might not have noticed are caught early.  It's not unheard of either to have a 'horse MOT' done by the vet at the beginning of the season.  It's also worth considering having your horse's teeth looked at by a specialist not just your vet.  Certain horse dentists have studied overseas for several years to gain extensive qualifications unavailable in this country.  

If you're a travelling tack shop, aspiring pro or entrepreneur then the winter is the ideal time to get any website issues or sponsorship sorted when there's more time.  Help is at hand again here!  Equishopping  run a comprehensive web design plan so you can start the 2011 season with an online presence.  What's more, there's currently a 25% off offer on!

On that theme, it's also a good idea to take stock of any finances, no matter how scary they are! Are you really getting the best deal? We think Equishopping's insurance database gives you a solid place to start in your quest for cheaper insurance. 

For now that's it. Enjoy the holidays!! 

Grooming kits - sooo much choice....

Grooming doesn't just get horses clean but it improves the bond between horse and human as well.  Although perhaps not to this extent: 

 

In all seriousness, isn't it about time you replaced your old tatty brushes?  You know, the ones that just keep going on and on but getting worse and worse at actually brushing anything....

Lets start at the top.  If you can afford it, the 'in' thing at the moment are full grooming kits.  That way you can colour coordinate everything from jackets and buckets to brushes and the lorry...

Of course we have an answer for those of you not so fortunate.  At the end of the day you can get by with just a body brush, dandy brush, hoof pick and comb - just don't let the BHS hear me say that... At the moment the secret weapon is a hose pipe with a spray gun.  Just make sure you've got all the sponges, sweat scrapers and hoof brushes you need. However, bear in mind that you've fairly likely to get the middle hoof if you use a hose pipe in December!!

While we're on the topic of winter which is literally about to batter summer out of existence its important to remember that conditions such as mud fever thrive in wet and muddy conditions.  It's worth investing in a good set of new brushes with some ping in the bristles as they'll make it far easier to get all that mud off - BANG and the dirt is gone....

A few things worth noting.  1. The bentley slip-not range really do work and stop grooming brushes acting like bars of soap. 2. You get what you pay for.  More expensive brushes are not only better ergonomically but the bristles will last longer and keep that fresh feel well into next season.  3. Get a big sturdy box for all your grooming kit.  That way the dog wont run off with it and you'll have an extra mounting block.  4. Rubber massage mits are a great way of removing loose hair and giving your horse a massage at the same time.  

When it comes to tails and manes its usually the case at this time of year that they need a bit of a tidy up.  That's fine if your horse doesn't mind having his mane pulled but if he does you're in for a battle.  Fear not! if you're a lucky one check out our range of mane combs, scissors and plaiting bands.  If you're not so lucky then we've got a few products up our sleeve to help you out.  So check out our range of mane pulling/thinning devices.  It might just save your life! 

If you're up for the challenge have a look through equishopping's entire range of grooming kit and see what the wackiest thing you can find is! My personal favorite and tip for the top is the vacuum groomer.  If you're lucky we might have a few competitions coming up to win some rather snazzy prizes (check out our last winner here) but the only way to find out about them is to subscribe! Or follow us on Facebook...

We'll look at clippers in a while but the next stop for our blog is a look at the World Equestrian Games which includes one of the largest flights of horses on record!!

Saddle fit and performance - a rider's point a view.

I won't pretend for a minute to be a saddler but what I do know is what I like.  Being 6' 2" I know from experience there's a difference between what some saddlers say fits and what doesn't.  "That fits nicely", "Actually I'd rather ride bareback than ride in that..." That said some saddlers are top knotch and even better there's the odd few that have ridden round 4*'s...

First point, if you've got long legs you're going to have trouble finding saddles that fit you.  Firstly, if you've a long hip to knee leg length then you end up having to have a very forward cut saddle to accommodate your leg with short stirrups.  If you've got a long knee to ankle length it's easier but that's not so common... The most forward cut saddles are XC saddles or event saddles.  The name suggests they're designed to go XC in but a lot of people SJ in them as well.  It's worth noting that I'm assuming people are riding in separate saddles for dressage and jumping.  

The next bit is down to personal preference.  Blocks and thigh supports.  There's a million different combinations out there.  One good feature of quite a few synthetic saddles is that you can adjust the position of the blocks (they're attached by velcro).  The degree of forward cutness varies hugely from saddle to saddle so you have to try them.  However, with adjustable blocks you need to have a second flap over the top to cover the velcro so you can't have a single flap saddle with this design.  There's a few different designs of block.  

Banana rolls are the long rolls that go down the front of the saddle around the front of the knee.  These are very obvious on the Wexford jumping saddle.  

On most single flap saddles you get thigh rolls.  The idea of these is not so they trap your thigh.  They shouldn't rest against your thigh when you sit in the saddle.  They are only supposed to come into action if you shift forward against them or if you lean against them when galloping.  The Bates momentum is a prime example of these.  That said, thigh rolls do come in varying sizes.  Smaller ones like on the momentum or larger ones on saddles like Antares or Devecoux but these tend to be custom made - at a price....

You also get calf blocks.  These are positioned on the back of the flap ie behind the calf.  I find that if these are under the flap of a double flap saddle the shape is to gentle and the block actually pushes your calf away from the saddle instead of 'blocking' it in.  When you have calf blocks on a single flap saddle they very much act as a barrier and you know when your leg hits them.  These are very clear on the Vinici jumping saddle.  

Now for the single vs double flap debate.... Having ridden in both types of saddle I prefer single flap saddles but unfortunately they tend to be more expensive so what I want isn't the deciding factor... The blocks on a single flap saddle are stuck on the outside so are far more defined and give  more feel.  The degree of 'feel' through a single flap is far greater and you do sit closer to the horse.  However, some people do prefer double flap saddles for backing youngsters for example.  With a double flap young horses feel less movement from the rider - OMG! There's someone on my back!!! PANIC!!! Plus, attaching things like side reins to a single flap saddle isn't the easiest thing in the world.  Top tip.  Single flap saddles also use short girths so that the buckles aren't under the riders leg - chances are you'll buy a single flap saddle and forget this (I did!).  

Now for another misconception.  Close contact saddles.  Close contact saddles use foam instead of flocking in the panels so can't be adjusted.  This also means the don't need re-flocking and you adjust the fit with saddle pads.  The set up at the pommel is also slightly different so that you are sat closer to the horse.  It makes a difference, if you get the chance, sit in a non close contact saddle then sit in a close contact one and you'll see.  The misconception is that all single flap saddles are close contact and double flap saddles aren't.  This isn't true.  However, the idea stems from modern commercial trends.  You can get single flap saddles that aren't close contact and double flap saddles which are close contact but they are quite rare... 

The next bit is fairly controversial and a huge number of people have very strong opinions on the matter.  Go to the local point to point and look at the length of jockey's stirrups.  Chances are the well behaved and careful horses will be ridden with longer stirrup leathers and the careless, easily tiring or difficult ones will be ridden with very short leathers.  The reasoning behind this is that should the difficult horse get itself in a tangle the short stirrups mean the jockey gets shot straight out the door but more importantly he is flung miles away from the drama.  The longer your stirrups the more secure you are, give or take a bit, look at dressage riders... Now think of eventing. We don't ride in flat racing saddles but with comparitvely short stirrups and large blocks on our saddles to STOP us falling off.  When event horses fall you're not going to get thrown as far away... The thinking is that excessively large blocks make this situation even worse.  So supposedly saddles that are a more SJ style with flatter knee rolls such as the John Whittaker saddle range will mean you fall off more easily in the event of a horse fall therefore being safer.  But, bear in mind that's just an opinion...

The best solution?  Find a saddler that knows their game.  That way we're all happy and safe.  I haven't said anything about dressage saddles.... patience, I'll have to do a part 2.  To be continued....

BBC News - Machine in Newmarket helps jockeys fall safely

Now this is seriously cool!

"A racing school in Suffolk has been using a machine to teach jockeys to fall safely.  Experts said the exercise builds jockeys' muscle memory to avoid injuries when falling from horses.  The British Racing School in Newmarket has been given the fall simulator to use on up and coming jockeys.  Champion jockey John Francome, who was visiting the school, said it would "save lives and prevent no end of injuries".  The Injured Jockeys Fund purchased the machine with the help of the charity Alborada Trust.  "In my view, everyone who rides should go on this machine," Mr Francome said.  "The great thing is that it teaches riders to be proactive and do something when they come off as opposed to just waiting to hit the ground.  You don't become a sky diver without any training on how to land.  But nobody ever teaches you what to do when you fall off a horse, and if you can't manoeuvre yourself to fall off properly, you are a risk and should not be riding.  The jockeys learn to tuck their shoulders in and keep rolling to get away from the horse."" (BBC, 2010)

Check out the video here.  

Of course you can also help protect yourself in the event of a fall by wearing a correctly fitted and appropriate body protector.  Want some advice on body protectors?  Well check out our earlier article covering body protectors.  

Body protectors, shoulder protection, Point Two and exo cages - a controversial subject!

Anyone eventing at the moment will undoubtably have heard of Point Two air jackets or perhaps an exo bodycage.  So lets have a look at the general stance on these but first lets start with normal body protectors.

There's a huge range of body protectors avaliable but all of them are constructed from 'impact foam'.  The general advice at the moment is to replace body protectors every 3 years as the foam losses it's shock absorbent properties (yup, that's me overdue..).  That said, there are models that don't need replacing such as the Kan.

The vast majority have a zip up the front and thankfully the days of leg straps are virtually gone.  The distinguishing factors tend to be in the foam.  All body protectors for eventing have to satisfy the BETA level 3 criteria so the protection will be of a uniform minimum.  However, more expensive brands use more flexible foam or 'moulding foam' that greatly increase comfort.  Plus, some of the more expensive brands have put huge amounts of research into improving performance without producing a bulky monster of a body protector. The other way of improving flexibility is to use small squares such as Racesafe's (british junior team sponsor) RS 2000.  Apart from that, it's a matter of personal preference so check out the whole of equishopping range of body protectors.

Before we move on to the likes of point2's there is one addition to a standard body protector that will make the world of difference if you hit the deck - the hardest thing about learning to ride (and we're all learning) - is the ground....

Shoulder pads. Imagine how a lot of falls happen - being thrown forwards and landing on the shoulder region.  Wearing shoulder pads significantly reduces the risk of a broken collar bone if you land in this way.  What's more you'll barely notice you're wearing them.

Now for the latest phenomenon to hit the eventing world.  Point Two air jackets.  The jacket is just like a waistcoat but with a lanyard attached to the saddle.  When you fall the lanyard breaks and inflates the jacket in 0.1 seconds which then provides protection to all major thoracic upper dominal organs and the collar area of the neck.  Studies have shown that these are the most likely body parts to be hurt so you can't go far wrong.  Studies also showed that they wouldn't worsen a fall so any previous claims of this have a challenge now.

However, the Point Two does have to be worn over a conventional body protector as it won't inflate until you're well out of the saddle.  This means that if the horse where to fall with you or say, ran into a tree the jacket wouldn't be activated.  Of course there's also the claims against it as with all new products.  Some argue that the force required to break the lanyard means the trajectory of your fall is altered meaning you land closer to your horse (the danger zone) although this is purely people's idea.  I don't think anyone's sat down with formulas and calculator to work that critique out.  Critics also say the sound when the CO₂ canister inflates the jacket would terrify a horse.  Having seen several canisters go off (including accidental ones when people didn't unclip before getting off!) I haven't seen any horses bothered by it although all horses are different...

Forum's usually have a lot to say about Point Twos and the Horse and Hound forum is no exception.  It raised concerns that if under normal circumstances you could have rescued yourself when thrown out of balance a long way that a Point Two would have activated by this point causing you to fall - mixed thoughts. How many times do you manage to pull yourself back if you've been thrown that far off. Considering the length of the lanyard is really quite long it would be a very impressive recovery.

On a more supportive note by all accounts Point Two gave out a small number of jackets for free to top professionals when they launched to get the jacket seen in action.  Now if you go to any BE event a huge proportion of competitors are wearing them - the uptake has been very encouraging and includes a large percentage of professionals who weren't given them for free.

The last but by no means least, is the Woof Wear exo cage.  It is what it says on the packet - a body protector with an aluminium exo skeleton inside.  However, they never really took off despite being researched heavily.  Few riders took them up and current rumors suggest that they have been taken out of production.  They have different aims to a point two: an air jacket won't protect against crushing injuries whereas an actual metal frame work will.  On the other hand a metal frame work provides far less protection from the bog standard bruising. Before you ask, no you can't wear both together.  People have attempted it but it doesn't quite work out as the cage moves the jacket too far away from the body.

So that's it.  There's such a wide choice of body protection available and thanks to BETA's standards we know that it all meets an appropriate standard.  Recent developments also mean we're safer than ever but at the end of the day if it's comfy you'll wear it so look in the place where's there a huge choice - equishopping!